Baja Beaches…No Respect

It is not unusual for a BIG rooster to eat a hooked ladyfish.

Beachfront hotels encourage sun bathing, snorkeling, and swimming but they basically consider the beach to be a sidewalk to deliver guests to the fishing boats they offer. Most anglers ‘take the bait’ and ignore the beach completely, opting to jump on a boat and get out where the real action is.

The local residents know that the beaches can offer good fishing. Hoards of the locals flock to the beach at every opportunity to cool off and enjoy an outing for the entire family. It isn’t unusual to see small children swimming and playing in the water at one end of camp, with the adults fishing at the other end.

Regardless of your fishing style, spin, fly, or bait casting, include your favorite stick in the rod tube. Fishing from the beach is the ultimate ‘do it yourselfer’ allowing you to figure it out on your own. The results can be spectacular if you are willing to spend the time.

Fishing Baja beaches is like fishing any other venue; it is all about being in the right place at the right time. Standing in one spot and casting until your arm is sore is not going to get it. Keep moving, look for the same signs as you would from a boat… birds or bait being pushed. Often you can spot fish swimming well within casting range. Small chrome spoons, surface poppers, swim baits or plastics all work; select the ones that you have had success with in other places.

The beach species’ list is impressive: roosters, jacks, yellowtail, pompano, pargo, grouper, ladyfish, etc. If you are very lucky you may even land a dorado or tuna. The beach is always full of surprises!

Locals seem to prefer bait while visitors tend to use lures. It is not unusual for a BIG rooster to eat a hooked ladyfish before you can land it. After that happens, you may think pinning that lady back on a hook and cast it out isn’t a bad idea.

There isn’t a bad time to fish the beach: Early morning before breakfast in low light conditions the fish seem to be actively feeding. Mid-day as the sun climbs higher in the sky, it is easy to spot free swimming fish within casting distance, as well as balled-up bait schools. Late afternoon and early evening produces low light conditions again.

Like any fishery worth its salt you need to put your time in. I often see an angler go out on the beach and in less than an hour head back to the pool or bar in disgust. Think about it. As great as the fishing can be in the Sea of Cortez it usually takes your Captain more than an hour to figure it out.

In The Angler's Guide to Trailer-Boating Baja, Zack Thomas talks about the joy of being on your own boat and having complete control of what you do. A Baja beach is the next best thing… allowing you to be your own Captain, using your acquired skills to land quality fish and have fun without depending on another person or boat.

My email address is roadtrekker1@verizon.net .

A New Breed…Time Will Tell

As the bright yellow air line began trailing behind the diver, the pangero began rowing to keep up. “Our diver doesn’t walk, he runs” Juanchys boasted.

We were up before sunrise on the morning of the second day of our trip and hurried down to the beach where the Cooperativa had gathered for the day’s commercial activity.

The crews were given a sheet of paper containing GPS coordinates, the quota of abalone to be harvested that day and a handheld GPS. Each panga was equipped with a small compressor and 150’ of air hose, and consisted of a crew of three, the panguero, a diver and the diver’s attendant. As promised, Juanchys had arranged for Glen and me to ride with them on one of the commercial pangas.
Soon all of the pangas were loaded and headied out to their assigned areas to begin the day’s work.

In less than thirty minutes, we were on the spot. With a yank on the cord, the compressor sputtered to life and over the side went the heavily weighted, wetsuited-diver as he plunged to the bottom forty feet below. I watched as Juanchys managed the air and safety line.

As the bright yellow air line began trailing behind the diver, the panguero began rowing to keep up.

“Our diver doesn’t walk, he runs,” Juanchys boasted. You see, they are not really divers, instead of fins, they wear protective boots and enough weights to keep them firmly planted on the bottom.

After fifteen minutes the diver popped to the surface and climbed into the boat, complaining that the bottom was devoid of rocks and consisted only of sand. The motor roared to life and we made a few hundred yard adjustment.

The diver returned to the bottom and it was barely fifteen minutes before there was a pull on the safety line signaling his dive bag was ready to be retrieved. Juanchys tugged and grunted as he hauled the overflowing bag of abalone to the surface.

An overflowing bag of abalone is carefully measured and counted
Carefully counting and measuring the catch and setting aside the shorts before putting the abalone in the box, Juanchys scrawled the total of 27 with a pencil on the boat seat. When the next bag was hauled to the surface it contained 52 more shellfish.

By now many pangas in our fleet were wrapping up and heading back to the beach having reached the day’s quota of 120 abalone.
Juanchys smiled, “Fifteen more minutes.” And sure enough, Carlos soon bobbed to the surface with the remaining 31 to complete the day’s quota. The few shorts that had been collected were returned by the diver who carefully placed them on a rock on the bottom.

Back on the beach Juanchys introduced me to Enrique Lucero, Cooperativa Administrator, a young man who appeared to be equally as comfortable on the damp sandy beach as he would be back in his office at the recently completed cannery. Enrique oversees the entire commercial abalone and lobster operation for La Bocana and was supervising the offloading of the day’s catch.
“All the Cooperativas along the west coast from Turtle Bay to San Ignacio have banded together.” He explained. “As a group they have been able to apply innovative techniques to both lobster and abalone fisheries, with a common goal of restoring a sustainable fishery that produces a consistent yield from year to year while increasing the resource.”

Employing their own marine biologists, they have developed formulas that allow them to do just that and both the lobster and abalone stocks seem to be growing in spite of the continued commercial harvesting.

Enrique also indicated that his group is interested in developing more tourism and sportfishing throughout the Vizcaíno region in the future. Later during my trip I spoke with a hotel owner who had visited the area recently and was considering establishing an operation there.



THE RECENTLY COMPLETED cannery is a technological marvel employing state of the art equipment

The newly completed cannery is a technological marvel employing state of the art equipment to process the catch and send the product off to market as efficiently as possible. Enrique encouraged Glenn and me to visit the facility.

Less than an hour after returning to the beach, we were at the cannery. We donned protective wear and were taken inside of the facility. The crews were already wrapping up after processing the entire fleet’s catch for the day.

After watching the commercial fishermen and their Cooperativas decimate marine resource after resource in Baja over the years, spending the morning on the panga with a crew that was careful to adhere to the instructions they were given, then, listening to Enrique as he enthusiastically outlined goals and techniques being implemented by his group to maintain the resources, I couldn’t help but feel a twinge of hope that maybe some of the new breed of commercial fishermen are beginning to get it right!

Baja Growing Pains….

LA CAPILLA, A beachfront development (where my family lived for seventeen years in “Ranch Deluxe”) has already scraped the existing structures in preparation for construction.

In April, I drove Mex 1 from the border to the tip and back which allowed me plenty of time to reflect on Baja’s recent accelerated growth. The windshield of my Roadtrek van was like an HD Flat- screen TV, displaying the underbelly of Baja, as I sped along the main road.

You don’t have to travel far to realize that the real estate boom is on in Baja, mirroring the one we had in the U.S. until recently. It is hard to ignore the “For Sale” signs that are almost as common as cactus these days as you travel down Mex 1.

Developers from around the world are invading Baja like the conquistadors of long ago, with cash instead of a sword. They bid against each other, driving up the costs. Left in their trail is a growing list of projects including beachfront homes, marinas, condos, time shares, golf courses, etc. Everyone seems to have caught the fever and Baja prices are increasing at an alarming rate.
Cabo San Lucas is an example of what happens to an unsuspecting small fishing village when large developments are added. The cost of living is increased, there is a strain on the infrastructure, an increased crime rate, housing becomes unaffordable and a “touristy atmosphere” that many deplore are all products of rapid growth.

Communities like East Cape are already feeling the effects of the boom. A handful of proposed projects are in varying stages from planning to actually beginning the initial grading… La Capilla, a beachfront development and “Cabo Rivera” an ambitious marina project in La Ribera are two of these. It is rumored that several thousand skilled laborers will be bought in to complete the construction. While businesses and many local officials are eager to cash in on the windfall brought by these developments, a number of local residents are anxious about the impact this growth could be on their way of life. Many long-time residents are seriously considering selling their properties and businesses and moving on.

You often hear old timers yearning for the good old days when things were less complicated. I suspect their wishes may fall into the “be careful what you wish for” category. I can remember how 30 years ago, I waited in line to make a telephone call to the U.S. at the local, one-line telephone office--- sometimes waiting as long as 45 minutes or longer for the operator to place my call. On the drive down in the early days, we were uneasy about our next tank of gas…stations were few and far between and often out of fuel. Potholes where common, some large enough to swallow a tire. They would often remain for months until a repair crew could resurface, only to have the chubascos arrive and wash them out again. Ground tackle had to be hauled down for anchoring in Cabo bay, as there were no slips or even a marina. And while the local mechanics were well known for being able to repair a transmission or engine with bobbypins and rubber bands, the larger yachts would often fly in their own mechanic if there were problems. These are just a few of the inconveniences in the old days.

While the simple Baja life was part of the charm that drew us to Baja in the first place, many of improvements are welcome. Now, there are full service marinas with slips to moor your boats, even keeping them secure in case of a chubasco, and you can find skilled mechanics if you run into a problem. Telephones and Internet have become commonplace. Mex 1 is well maintained; it is rare that you find a pothole that isn’t resurfaced quickly. There are many more service stations along the highway to choose from. And gas is cheaper in Baja.

The Mexican officials are scrambling to combat the recent crime increases by adding more Military checkpoints and involving the Military in local crime enforcement. It’s not quick enough, however, for the U.S. State Department who recently advised caution when traveling in Baja---specifically Baja Norte---but it is a beginning.

Growth in Baja is inevitable and will undoubtedly continue to cause growing pains during the process. For some this will be the “straw that broke the camel’s back.” Others will embrace the improvements while searching out the overshadowed but still uncomplicated Baja that still exists.

The Angler's Guide to Trailer-Boating Baja…the right stuff

The Angler's Guide to Trailer-Boating Baja is a book full of valuable information that will soon be worn and dog-eared from use.

This past year and half as I have wandered up and down Baja, I constantly ran into Zack Thomas. Wherever I went, there Zack would be, boat in tow and camera in hand. Zack’s explanation was that he was gathering material for a new book.

Last week he stopped by my house to show me his finished product and to deliver my copy of his new 320 page book The Angler's Guide to Trailer-Boating Baja.

Over the past few years, some of the Baja books that have been produced are more fluff than stuff - designed to occupy a corner of your coffee table to impress your friends. Few are serious how to books that requires a place on the seat next to you on your Baja trips. The Angler's Guide to Trailer-Boating Baja is a book full of valuable information that will soon be worn and dog-eared from use.

Dispelling common Baja myths and covering all the "brass tacks" a first-timer (or veteran) Baja boater needs to know, Zack’s new book covers it all — not just paperwork, but also preparing your boat, trailer and tow vehicle for your trip, what parts and supplies are [and aren't] available below the border, driving conditions, drive times, and much more.

The book details more than 30 launch spots, ranging from full-service marinas to remote beach launches. In addition to descriptions and photos of the launches themselves, each chapter includes complete, up-to-date logistical information — where to buy ice, food, and drinks; where to stay and how much it's going to cost; where to wash down your boat; which Pemex stations are most convenient for truck-trailer rigs; navigational hazards to be aware of; where to catch/buy bait, etc.

Towing your own boat into Baja California and exploring and fishing its wild, rich, mysterious waters on your own is an adventure in the truest sense — it never goes quite according to plan. It's a bit risky, and it requires considerable planning and preparation, but you can pretty much count on seeing and experiencing things you'll remember the rest of your life.

However, that first trip below the border can be intimidating. Unfounded horror stories abound about corrupt cops, terrible roads, rampant theft, and "Montezuma's revenge." And getting straight, definitive answers about things like insurance, licenses, visas and regulations can be nearly impossible.

Everything in The Angler's Guide to Trailer-Boating Baja is the result of firsthand research. "The thing that sets this book apart," Thomas says, "is that between November 2006 and November 2007, I towed my own boat to every corner of Baja and scrounged up every scrap of information you'd need to plan a trip to any launch spot on the peninsula. I was always thinking, 'What would I want to know if I'd never been here before?'

If you are still not sure about plunking down your $30 for another Baja book, there is a sample launch-spot chapter, the preface and the table of contents online that you can review at www.bajatrailerboating.com.

If you decide that this is a book for you it can be purchased online or at many SoCal tackle shops.

Shark Minerva vs. Shark Norma

MINERVA SMITH, well known IGFA Representative and head of the Union of Sport Fishers in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, receiving her award for her continuing efforts on behalf of Sportfishing in Cabo San Lucas from IGFA President Rob Kramer and IGFA Trustee Guy C. Harvey, Ph.D.. In addition to crusading to repeal the flawed fisheries legislation, Shark Norma, to stop long-lining in the recreational fishing boundaries of Baja Sur, Mexico, Minerva has also been a vocal advocate in the campaign to promote the use of circle hooks and encouraging restaurants to remove marlin from their menus in Cabo San Lucas.

The International Game Fish Association (IGFA) recently recognized Minerva Smith, long-time resident of Cabo San Lucas and IGFA Representative, with an award for her conservation efforts. These efforts include promoting the removal of marlin from the restaurant menus in Cabo San Lucas, encouraging the use of circle hooks and her ongoing battle with the Mexican Government to have its flawed fisheries legislation, NOM-029 (commonly known as “Shark Norma”), repealed.

A Mexican citizen born in Sonora, Mexico, Minerva was raised in Southern California and speaks fluent English. When Bob Smith proposed to her and insisted that they relocate to Cabo San Lucas, she didn’t have a clue where Cabo was until she looked at a map.

After moving to Cabo in 1976, they started a small sportfishing charter business. When the town began to boom in the 1980s, their business thrived and by the fall of 1989, they opened Cabo's first tackle shop, Minerva’s Baja Tackle. Located in a small space on the main waterfront boulevard a short distance from the marina, today, Minerva’s Baja Tackle is filled with the latest and greatest fishing tackle and is considered THE tackle shop in Cabo.

Demonstrating the passion common among sportfishermen, t his five foot tall dynamo is fiercely protective of the fishery around Cabo San Lucas and throughout Mexican waters. With a sharks strength and tenacity she continues to go toe to toe with Mexican officials who support NOM-029, legislation that allows long lining within the recreational fishing boundaries.

Since its passage last year she has unwaveringly documented the problems it has created and has insisted that the annual review required by law be completed.

According to the proponents of the legislation, Shark Norma will offer protection for sea life, but Minerva replies that none of the scientists and marine biologists who work within CONAPESCA has been able to explain how the regulation will help sharks, rays, sport fish, turtles or any sea life. The only group that will benefit from this law is COMMERCIAL FISHING! She goes on to say that “sharks and rays are in need of regulation because their habitat is being degraded and they are being commercially over-fished! It is obvious that NOM-029, which allows longlines and gillnets to commercially fish within 15 to 20 miles of the coast, is not the way to protect these same endangered species! The regulation is an invitation for the traditional commercial fishing interests, with the help of CONAPESCA, to target sportfish.”

So where is the Norma-029 today? Currently shark permits are in a state of disarray, the sale and resale of existing permits is unregulated, inspections of fishing equipment are not being conducted and there is absolutely no enforcement.

The law requires that the head of CONAPESC, Ramon Corral, calls for a review of the Shark Norma no later than the anniversary of the laws passing, May 15th, 2008.

In a recent telephone call, Minerva said that it is imperative that all the various organizations have a voice in the revision process; it cannot be left only to CONAPESCA. After all, this is the same department that tried to establish a bycatch limit to include all sportfish.

Fortunately, on February 13th, 2008, Felipe Calderón, President of Mexico, approved through the National Sciences and Technology Council a budget of one million dollar to CIBNOR in La Paz to assure a review of all fishery programs which concern the public or the region. (This means us!) Recently, CIBNOR Institution in La Paz presented some final conclusions showing no grounds on which to allow for the incidental catch of sportfish, according to Minerva.

“This is our goal,” Minerva stated, “to continue to unite the sport fishing sector--- Marinas de Mexico, The Los Cabos Hotel Assoc., the private sector, many different groups like IGFA, The Billfish Foundation, Seawatch, countless businesses, clubs, communities, tourist organizations and NGO's--- with CIBNOR to build a comprehensive Shark Management Plan implementing solid goals and programs.

The number of our supporters grows every day. We have assembled a formidable legal team to continue the battle within Mexico’s judicial system. With everyone’s help we believe that the flawed NOM-029 (Shark Norma) CAN BE defeated once and for all.”

For additional information please visit http://www.billfish.org/new/billfish.asp?pageID=109
My email address is roadtrekker1@verizon.net .

Spring Baja Billfish Tournaments on the Horizon

Baja and fishing tournaments go together like chips and guacamole. They come in all shapes and sizes. Many are simply an excuse to fish and party, others are serious events providing charities with funds to support a variety of causes; on the other end of the spectrum, there are money tournaments that can literally turn a fish into a huge cash prize, allowing a lucky angler or team to become instant millionaires. While it appears that there are several contests somewhere in Mexico every month, spring always brings a blizzard of press releases announcing a seemingly endless stream of events.

Here are several events scheduled for May which demonstrate the variety of objectives that Baja tournaments offer:




PUERTO LOS CABOS Billfish Classic is the first event showcasing the new marina in San Jose del Cabo
Puerto Los Cabos Billfish Classic - May 7 -- 10 - is the first event to showcase the new marina in San Jose del Cabo. It appears, however, that they are hedging their bets and allowing boats to start from either the Cabo Marina or Puerto Los Cabos Marina. Initially the event included a minimum weight of 160 lbs. for striped marlin. The rule infuriated the sportfishing community and the event found itself embroiled in a controversy over the “kill” format. Anglers using the Marlin Nut forum http://www.marlinnut.com/ mounted an email/letter writing campaign protesting the kill tournament regardless of minimum weight.
After receiving numerous protests Harvey Hunnicutt, IGT President, elected to modify the rules to “release only” for striped marlin. http://www.igtournaments.com/pdf/IGTeBLAST01.pdf
Which is a excellent example of the impact Sportfishing community and individual anglers may have when they band together in support of causes ranging from regulatory issues like NOM-29 to conservation.
The IGT Mexico Tournament Series also includes Mazatlan Billfish Classic, Cancun Billfish Classic, Puerto Vallarta Billfish and Tuna Classic, and Puerto Los Cabos World Cup. These are held at different locations in Mexico and Baja culminating with an IGT Grand Championship (dates to be announced).


The pennants were flying as the Marina Rubicon Marlin Cup 2006 team from Lanzarote, Spain, accomplished an unbelievable feat with 10 marlin releases on the fourth and final day earning fishing's prestigious 2007 IGFA Offshore World Championship in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.

Offshore World Championship - May 11 -- 16 -Considered by many as the “Olympics” of offshore fishing, the International Game Fish Association sponsors this serious, non-money tournament, celebrating the skill of anglers from around the world. Since 2000, the event has grown into the sport’s premiere offshore fishing series. All participants are already winners, having won in one of the 130 qualifying events held in 38 different countries.
“Countries and territories from five continents represented so far include teams from Angola, Australia, the Bahamas, Bermuda, Brazil, Canada, Costa Rica, Croatia, Grenada, Guatemala, Italy, Jamaica, Mexico, New Zealand, Panama, Puerto Rico, St. Lucia, Spain, Trinidad & Tobago, Turks and Caicos, the United States, Vanuatu and Venezuela,” said Tournament Coordinator, Ms. Lesley Arico. “The championship currently has 66 teams signed up for 2008 to fish this all-release format using non-offset circle hooks. Events include a fundraiser and auction. Considered the most prestigious catch-and-release blue water fishing tournament in the world, the event also draws the single largest contingent of international teams ever to compete in a fishing competition.” http://www.igfa.org/Offshore_08/tour_os_2008se.asp


World Championship Billfish Release Tournament - May 17th -21st - Another money tournament requiring mandatory use of circle hooks in an all-release format, WCBRT offers a new class of billfish tournament. The event has already attracted anglers from worldwide ports of distinction. The WCBRT is a qualifying event for the IGFA Offshore Championship and will include a Junior World Championship Division. The mission of the WCBRT is to promote competition, sportsmanship and the advancement of billfish conservation in a manner that will insure healthy billfish populations and exciting fishing experiences today and for future generations. http://www.wcbrt.com/index.htm

If you have comments my email address is roadtrekker1@verizon.net

David Paul ("Smokey Dave") Manuel September 9, 1960 – May 16, 2007

Smokey Dave found his dream

The fabric of Baja is like a serape, multi-colored and consisting of many threads. David Paul Manuel, “Smokey Dave”, was one of those colorful threads.

Smokey’s Baja saga began in the early 90’s when he moved to Baja with one of his best friends and built the successful Manana’s Pizza. By 1996, Dave sold his share of Manana’s Pizza to his partner in order to pursue his dream of sunny days and excellent fishing.

But Clarence Moyers, a former lawyer who had recently opened East Cape Smokehouse, offered Dave the position of General Manager and by 1997, Dave became a full 50% partner in the Smokehouse. He soon became known simply as “Smokey Dave”.
Under Dave’s management, “East Cape Smoke House” was up and running full speed. Every afternoon, Smokey Dave, with his infectious smile and persuasive spirit, along with his team of employees, could be found on the hotel piers greeting the fishermen and gathering their catches for processing.

Hard work paid off; the business grew as the fishermen spread the word that East Cape Smoke House provided quality service!

Dave also began offering the most informative, weekly fishing reports in the East Cape area. Soon the weekly reports became a “must read” for any serious fisherman planning to visit the area.

No matter how busy Smokey became, he always had a smile and a willingness to lend a helping hand as Los Barriles grew. Of course there were the parties and Smokey was known for not missing many. Life was good!
In 2001, wanting to have more time to pursue his passion for fishing, Dave decided to sell the Smokehouse and develop real estate. This allowed him more time to enjoy all the things that had attracted him to Baja. More fishing, more exploring, more time for more involvement in community affairs and more parties. Then the unthinkable happened: Smokey was diagnosed with the “Big C”.

Many members of the community whose lives had been touched by Smokey Dave circled around him and formed group called “Team Smokey”. These were friends who dearly loved him and wanted to let Smokey know that he was not alone in his battle. They were his cheerleaders, the hopers, the prayers, the keepers of faith, the warriors and even the worriers.

One of Smokey Dave's dearest friends in Baja, Markos “Mako” Higginson, periodically sent out newsletters to the group's members, allowing everyone to track Smokey's triumphs and tribulations, and the overall ‘goings on’ in Smokey's life as he moved from Baja to Colorado, back to Baja, back to Colorado, and finally to South Dakota to be near immediate family.

May 18, 2006 was a remarkable day in East Cape. Team Smokey organized a parade of sorts; actually Smokey was the parade!

Members of the communities of Los Barriles, Buena Vista, Las Cuevas, La Ribera and Cabo Pulmo gathered along the streets and waited patiently.

Mako slowly drove through the communities as hundreds of teary-eyed friends bid farewell to Smokey, many holding hand-made signs and dressed in colorful costumes and outfits. Although not wanting to admit it, many felt that it could be the last time Smokey would bask in the warm sunlight of southern Baja, a place he truly loved.

Of course, Smokey stopped in the Smokehouse to say goodbye to the crew, many of whom were hired by him in the early days and needless to say, there wasn't a dry eye. Smokey was clearly moved and he knew how deeply he was loved.

As it turned out, Smokey never made it back to Baja in person but he definitely remains with us in spirit.

Early last November, there was a three-day fiesta to honor Smokey. Many of Smokey’s relatives and amigos from the north came down for the festivities. It began on Nov. 2nd with a pub crawl, originating at Rancho Leonero Hotel, and winding its way to Spa Buena Vista, Rancho Buena Vista, Buzzard’s Bay Cantina, and Tio Pablo’s, and finally ending at Otra Vez. It was quite a spectacle!

Saturday morning, breakfast was served on the beach in Buenos Aires just north of town. Smokey’s friends hung out on the beach all day. At the end of the day, in true Viking fashion, Smokey Dave’s ashes were returned to his Sea of Cortez on a burning bush.


At the end of the day, in true Viking fashion, Smokey Dave’s ashes were returned to his Sea of Cortez on a burning bush.
Casa Dondlinger, close friends of Smokey’s, hosted a dinner, where his amigos enjoyed not one, but two, roasted pigs with all the fixin’s! It was all just as Smokey would have wanted it . . . a celebration of life.

Some seek their dream and achieve it, some find it and fail to achieve it and others find it only to lose it because of something beyond their control. Smokey Dave found his dream! Adios to our amigo, David Paul Manuel, gone, but never to be forgotten.